Trapping Info

This page was last updated: April 5, 2009

For Education ~ Not For Profit

Land Sets & Construction

Before using any sets on this page please check with your local state trapping regulations as some regulations are different and may be against the trapping regulations where you trap.

BUCKET SET

The Bucket Set is very similar to a cubbie set. In the picture above a 160 conibear is set inside the bucket, notches are cut out along the sides of the bucket so the springs from the conibear slide into the slots, helping to stabilize the trap. Bait or lure will be placed in the back of the bucket. As the animal approaches these smells and sticks his head inside the bucket causing the conibear to close around his neck causing death. Buckets used can come in many different sizes for many different species.  Note how the bucket stabilizer is mounted. Always use some sort of stabilizer to keep the bucket from rolling as coon will often climb on top of the buckets.

Side view of the Bucket Set  in picture above. Note how the springs are wired to the bucket. Bucket sets shouldn't be used where a non target animal may be caught such as cats and dogs. Think safety when using conibears.

BARREL SET

The Barrel Set Pictured above is identical to the cubbie set pictured below except a barrel is used instead of building a cubbie. The only difference is to make sure the barrel can not be rolled as Raccoons like to walk on top of the Barrels to check them out. By wedging stones or logs next to the barrel this will prevent it from moving.

CUBBIE SET

The Cubbie Set  can be made from many different materials. In the picture above this cubbie was made from rocks, logs, sticks and leaves that are easily found outdoors. As you can see these items have been formed in to a box where bait or lure will be placed in the back. As the animal approaches these smells  he steps on the trap that is bedded solid  and covered with dirt, leaves or grass outside the cubbie. Cubbies can be built in many different sizes for many different species. Also conibear traps can be used at cubbies right at the entrance to the cubbie and as the animal sticks his head in to see what the smell is the conibear closes fast around him.

CUBBIE SET- By Dan Tanner

I like to set these cubbies in the woods for a few reasons,

1. Its constructed with logs and sticks and they are easily found in the woods.

2. How odd would it look if this thing was in the middle of a field?

I this picture the cubbie is made in a V shape out of the sticks and logs, I like to keep my cubbies about 18-24 inches high and in the end of the V I will add my attractor, could be a dirt hole, hunk of meat, or just some lure on a few feathers. Possibility's are endless.

But i like the dirt hole the best, so that is what I used for the pictures. I like to keep the trap back about 10 inches or so from the hole as the V gets real narrow the closer you get to the hole and I feel that setting it back further will get more catches as some canines or even bobcats may not enter the cubby all the way to the hole.

After the cubbie is made and the trap is bedded solid i then add 2 stepping sticks to keep the critter from stepping on the trap jaws.

I want him to step over the stick and place his foot right on the trap pan.

I like to STICK the sticks in the ground to keep them from getting knocked onto the trap it self and I like to keep them sticking up at the angles shown as it appears natural.

I also place the stepping sticks about a half inch away from the traps jaws , one on each side.

Close up of the set

Set from 15 feet away

DIRTHOLE SET

The Dirthole Set as pictured above and below is probably the most used trapping set for canines and other land bound furbearers. There are many variations of the dirt hole set. The size of the whole can be from quarter size to basketball size and the number of holes can vary as well. This is a set that no matter how many holes you make or what size holes you dig it will always be attractive to furbearers.

DIRTHOLE SET

(side view)

When making your Dirt hole sets always  select a proper location. Dig your dirt hole on an angle like in the side view picture so that the only way the animal can see what's in the hole is to step on your trap. Dig this hole a minimum of 12 inches deep so that your bait can not be stole easily by the animal. The idea is to keep him at the set and working it longer. Dig your trap bed as you would with other land set, stake the trap and bed the trap  so there is no wobble from the trap no matter which spot  on the trap you touch. If there is movement the animal will notice this when he steps down and in return will dig up the trap to see why the ground was soft or unstable. After your trap is wobble free then proceed by covering the trap usually with sifted dirt to minimize stones and sticks from letting the trap close completely. Pack the freshly sifted dirt inside and outside the trap jaws. After your trap is bedded, and hole dug out all that is needed is bait, lure or urine down the whole. A wad of grass rolled up and stuffed down the who over your bait will also keep the animal working the set longer as he tries to find the bait.

DOUBLE DIRTHOLE SET  - By Dan Tanner

In this picture the holes are dug and the trap is staked in the center of the bed. The holes are dug in at different angles so that no matter which hole the canine comes to check out he will be standing on my trap pan. I also keep about 2 inches between the trap bed and the edge of the holes, this keeps the canine from catching and flipping the trap as he digs the hole to get the bait. I also like a suitable backing such as a mound of dirt, brush, log or rock to make him come around the front side of the trap instead of digging at the holes from the back side where there is no trap.

In this  next picture I have stuck some things in the holes to show you the angles I like. These are just for reference the sticks aren't left at the set.

By standing above this cross your pan should be directly below where the sticks cross.

This assures me no matter which side he approaches the set or which hole he decides to work he will end up on my pa .

Bait and lure the holes how ever you wish, for me a gland lure in one and a mild food lure in the other work well.

The Completed Set-

And take notice there is a slight depression in the trap bed about 1 inch lower than the surrounding ground.

This set can be made a variety of ways, big holes, small holes more backing, less backing and so on.

But the most important is the angles of the holes, keep them over your pan.

FLAT SET

(side view)

When making your Flat sets always  select a proper location. Dig your trap bed as you would with any other land set, stake the trap and bed the trap  so there is no wobble from the trap no matter which spot  on the trap you touch. If there is movement the animal will notice this when he steps down and in return will dig up the trap to see why the ground was soft or unstable.

After your trap is wobble free then proceed by covering the trap usually with sifted dirt to minimize stones and sticks from letting the trap close completely. Pack the freshly sifted dirt inside and outside the trap jaws. After your trap is bedded , a backing of some sort is usually used, a small rock or clump of grass to prevent the animal from approaching your set from a different way and missing your trap. Since their is no hole dug for bait or lures you need to make sure the animals approach to the trap is restricted. Place lure , urine or bait on the backing  so that the animal has to step over the trap to investigate.

URINE POST SET

The Urine Post Set is another good canine set. Canines are territorial and like to mark lots of territory as they travel, similar to a dog that marks certain bushes at the park. Canines do the same thing weather it be a log, rock ,stick or a clump of grass all can be used as a urine post set. The idea is to make the animal want to urinate on the object and as he is doing that he gets caught.  It is better to have an outstanding object from the rest of the surroundings that the animal will use to mark his territory as he comes by , to claim his land or let others know he has been there. Dig your trap bed 6-8 inches from the urine post, stake your trap and blend the trap bed in so that it looks as their was no disturbance. Your trap should be placed in an easily accessible side that the animal can get to. A gland lure or squirt of urine on the post is all that is needed.

FLAT SET / URINE POST SET - By Dan Tanner

This set is a little of both its not really a scent post set and not really a flat set but here goes.

Anyway I like to set those spots with grass 4-8 inches high that most don't trap or have much success with. Most canine trappers pass these spots up but i will set everyone I can. What i do is get a log or rock about 8 inches high and oh about 10 inches long, this is my eye appeal in this grass.

I don't like using a dirt hole in the high grass as a dirt pattern just don't give me good results in grass, maybe the canines are spooked of it sure beats me but this seems to be the ticket for high grass or just grassy in general.

After the log, or rock is in place I start pulling the grass out where my trap bed will be (KEEP THIS GRASS) I normally like to set the trap about 6 inches from the log . I then get my hammer out and pound the ground down, thats right NO DIGGING THE TRAP BED, after the trap bed is ponded down stake your trap in the center and bed your trap.

After the trap is bedded, I like to stick a cotton ball or sheep's wool under the log or rock with GLAND LURE on it. But I let it hang out just enough for visual appeal. By sticking it under the log or rock its protected from weather.

I then squirt some fresh urine on the top of the log right in the middle.

Then simple take the grass you pulled out and rip it up into small pieces and cover your trap. The set should be completely blended so if you need to pull some more grass just get some within arms reach and cover the trap but DO NOT BUNCH IT UP OVER THE PAN this set should remain flat with the surrounding ground. Also large amounts of grass over your trap will cause the trap to clog up when fired, so just use whats needed.

The finished set

The set from 20 feet away

HOLLOW LOG SET

The Hollow Log Set  as pictured above is a lot like the cubbie set. But instead of building a cubbie you are using a hollow log. Bait and lure as you would the cubbie and bed the trap solid as you would with any other land set. For added eye appeal shred up the end of the log to make it look as if something was working the log.

TRAIL SET

The Trail Set  as pictured above in Figure 1:  Is exactly what it sounds like. It is a trap placed in a trail that is being used by animals. Most furbearers will use certain trails week after week for their normal travel routes. To make the trail set find a trail being used by the furbearer you are after then locate the most narrow point of that trail and set up there. Buy using the most narrow spot in the trail you will better your chances of the animal passing through the trap. Make sure the conibear is stable and does not move. If needed you can make the trail more narrow by adding debris such as rocks, limbs, leaves, grass and so on but be sure that this added debris will not get in the way of the trap when it fires. In the picture above 2 sticks are used as stabilizers, one through the spring and one between the jaws.

Figure 2: is another example of a Trail Set but this one is under a building. The animal is using the trail so a conibear is placed in its path, once again sticks have been used as stabilizers to keep the trap from moving.

Figure 1:

Figure 2:

WALK THROUGH SET - By Dan Tanner

Again there are many variations of this set but this is what works the best for me.

I like to get 2 logs about 10 or so inches around and about 4-6 feet long , I then lay them down side by side with about 10 inches in between them and bed my trap in the center.

The idea is to have the critter walk in between the logs to get to the attractor thats in the middle and since its open on both ends even if hes not interested in working the set its easier for him to WALK THROUGH than to turn around and go back, that puts 4 feet crossing this trap which sounds good to me.

In this picture the logs are layed down and the attractor is a small dirt hole in the middle of the logs with a #3 Bridger guarding it (large trap =large catch area).

As you can see there is not much room in between the logs for walking without hitting the trap.

Bed the trap solid and cover as usual but blend the entire walk through way so that it looks natural.

In the next picture the stepping sticks are used again and in the exact same way as the Cubbie set above to cause the critter to step over the stick and step on the pan instead of stepping on the jaw and then over the trap.

Keep the trap bed completely blended in because you don't want a fresh dirt pattern over your trap.

Keep the walk through area looking natural.

The Completed Set

Just keep in mind when using these sets, this is how I construct them , this is not the only way it can be done.

DONT BE AFRAID TO EXPERIMENT.

And more importantly then the sets or there construction is LOCATION, no set in the world will make up for being on location, these sets work for me and I'm hoping they will work for you .

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